Friday, December 9, 2016

Rebuilding 1969 Mustang Non-Tilt ('Telescoping') Steering Column

Rebuilding the Non-Tilt ('Telescoping' or 'Collapsing') steering column on your 1969 Mustang isn't particularly difficult, but the information explaining 'how-to' is few and far between. In this write-up, I will list the parts available and where to find them, share exploded views from multiple sources, and explain how I rebuilt my steering column assembly.

The list of parts I used to rebuild my steering column assembly isn't representative of all the parts available, but these are the parts most likely to wear out or break.

Part Numbers and Illustrations apply
Source: Online Review 

Descriptions and Various Parts apply
Source: Haynes Manual

Descriptions. Illustrations, and Part Numbers apply
Source: 1969 Ford Car Shop Manual
Before we begin disassembly, it's important to understand why our steering shaft may need a rebuild. One reason is that the bearings and seals are made of plastic and foam which deteriorate over time, causing slop in the shaft it's self. Another reason is that the steering column is designed to collapse on impact, sacrificing the internals of the steering column tube to minimize damage to the driver.  If your column has collapsed due to impact, a replacement steering shaft assembly is recommended. 

Source: 1969 Ford Car Shop Manual
When I began my steering column rebuild, I did not expect I would be needing to write-up the process. After seeing the lack of information available on reassembly, I decided one was needed. Because of this oversight, I did not document the tear-down process, but will list the general steps to get you started.

Disassembly

1.) Disconnect the battery
2.) Disconnect the Turn Indicator Switch wiring harness (under dash)
3.) Remove steering wheel (process will vary slightly if original or after-market)
4.) Remove Turn Signal Switch Lever
5.) In the engine bay, remove the rag joint from the steering box input shaft (7/16" Universal Socket)
6.) Under the dash at the firewall, disconnect the firewall bracket and seal (3513)
7.) Disconnect and remove steering tube assembly bracket from the dash

The steering column assembly will now be loose and can be pulled through the firewall, including attached rag joint.

Disassembly Continued

8.) Disconnect and remove rag joint from steering shaft flange
9.) Disconnect and remove turn signal indicator switch and hazard grommet
10.) Remove Steering Shaft C-Clip (3C610) and remove spacer, bearing, and bearing sleeve. The steering shaft is now free and pulls out of the bottom of the assembly

Bearing Retaining C-Clip (3C610), Spacer, Bearing (3517), and rubber Bearing Sleeve (3518)
11.) Disconnect Shift Tube Retaining Bolts. The bolts will fall down into the upper steering shroud, which is fine.

Shift Tube Retaining Bolts. The initial view of them underneath the turn signal indicator switch

12.) Disconnect Phillips head screws and remove the upper shroud. You can retrieve the shift tube retainer bolts and fully remove the turn signal indicator switch now. Shift Tube and Steering Column Tube are now free and pull a part from each other.
Phillips head screws for the upper shroud

13.) Take note of bearings (plastic) and spacers (foam) still intact in Shift Tube and Steering Column Tube

Steering Column Tube and Shift Tube. Note the plastic bearing (upper 7347) that is not available as a reproduction

Reproductions and salvaged parts ready for install

Reassembly

After cleaning, prepping, and painting the assembly, you're ready to put it back together.

1.) Insert the salvaged 7347 upper bearing into the steering column tube, making sure the tabs face upwards, towards the top of the tube, and the retaining dimples line up with the cut-outs on the steering column tube

Upper 7347 bearing inserted into steering column shift tube

2.) Install foam seal 7C102 into steering column tube and push it in until it rests against the bottom of 7347

7C102 seal installed into steering column tube

3.) Install foam seal 3E629 into the shift tube, and push it down into the tube by about an inch
4.) Install plastic bearing 7347 (lower, reproduction available) into the end of the shift tube
5.) Install shift tube into steering column tube, rotating slightly so as to work it past foam seal 7C102

Foam seal 3E629 and plastic bearing 7347 (lower) installed into shift tube. Shift tube then installed into steering column tube
6.) Take the upper shroud and install your retaining bolts. Only thread the nut on by one thread, allowing the bolts to be floppy (very important later)

Underside of the upper shroud, with retaining bolts very loosely threaded on

7.) Run the turn signal indicator switch wiring through the upper shroud hole
8.) Align your steering column tube, shift tube, and lower shroud so that the bolt on the underside of the column is accessible (it's about to all come together)

Steering column tube, shift tube, and lower shroud all aligned so that bolt on underside of column is accessible

Use a socket to help keep steering column tube and shift tube aligned
9.) Run the turn signal indicator harness through the bottom shroud

Turn signal indicator harness runs through lower shroud, with socket holding alignment
Upper shroud and lower shroud harness recesses are offset by roughly 10-degrees
10.) Align upper shroud with steering assembly by lining up Phillips screw head seats, retainer bolt heads with shift tube cut-outs, and wiring harness recess
11.) Press upper shroud onto steering assembly, making sure retaining bolts are loose enough to swing out of the way, and come back to rest in shift tube retainer cut-outs. Tighten retainer bolts and Phillips head screws

Your shift tube is now connected to the steering column tube, and your upper shroud to the steering assembly. The shift tube will stick out by roughly half an inch from the bottom of the steering column tube and should feel solidly attached. If not, loosen retainer bolts and reseat them.

Shift Tube Retaining Bolt cut-outs on Shift Tube

Shift Tube protruding from bottom of Steering Column Tube when installed
12.) Install firewall seal (3513) and firewall bracket onto steering shaft. These do fit over the steering shaft flange, but it is very snug
13.) Install steering shaft into shift tube/steering assembly

Firewall seal and firewall bracket installed. They do fit over the flange, but it's tight

14.) Install bearing sleeve (3518), bearing (3517), spacer, and bearing retainer clip (3C610-B). I greased my bearing with marine grease, but greasing it at all isn't necessary

Bearing sleeve, bearing, spacer, and c-clip installed. Your c-clip may rest where the screwdriver indicates. I installed mine further down on the steering shaft to sit closer to the spacer

15.) Fasten turn signal indicator, hazard grommet, and steering adapter to upper shroud (if using aftermarket steering wheel).

Column is ready for install into the Mustang. Note: Don't install the rag joint on the shaft yet

16.) At the steering box input shaft, install the keyed rag joint. To help align the rag joint, mark the flat tooth on the outside of the rag joint with Sharpie

Keyed rag joint, aligned and ready to be seated

When seating the rag joint, align the bolt recess (about 1/4" between steering box and rag joint). Otherwise the bolt won't thread in

Bolt recess aligned and ready to be tightened

17.) Take the steering column assembly and insert it through the firewall. Loosely install the dash bracket (to hold the column at the correct angle)
18.) Install foam plug 3B361 into the end of your steering shaft. Align and mate the steering shaft to the rag joint and tighten rag joint bolts
19.) Tighten dash bracket bolts
20.) Install and tighten firewall bracket bolts
21.) Straighten wheels and install steering wheel
22.) Install turn signal indicator lever
23.) Install horn
24.) Install turn signal indicator harness (under dash)
25.) Reconnect battery
26.) Start engine. With vehicle in park, turn wheels fully left and fully right, and test turn signal indicators



You should have a stout-feeling connection to the steering box now, and a great-looking steering column to show for your efforts.




Thanks for reading!


Disclaimer #1: My dash bracket hardware had been changed out long ago, requiring me to remove my dash to reach the hardware. This isn't typical, but it's a possibility for any Mustang.

Disclaimer #2: This write-up is purely from memory. If I missed something, please put it below in the comments, along with where it should go in the process, and I'll update it to reflect your addition.

9 comments:

  1. Really awesome blog. Your blog is really useful for me. Thanks for sharing this informative blog. Keep update your blog. Visit us : dodge adjustable control arms

    ReplyDelete
  2. Very nice write up with pics! I like your steering wheel, what brand is it?

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  3. Hi Bob - The steering wheel is a Volante 14" with a billet adapter. CJ Pony Parts carries them here - http://www.cjponyparts.com/volante-steering-wheel-kit-14-black-leather-4-spoke-tear-drop-polished-aluminum-with-billet-adapter-and-horn-button-1967-1973/p/STW31KD-V/

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  4. Nice work. I'm going through exactly the same process at the moment on my '69 Mach1. Your post made my life so much easier. As you mentioned there is very little info out there on how to do this properly. I was unsure exactly where those insulating bushes went. Even the Ford exploded diagram does not show it very well.

    Thanks very much for taking the time to document this process.

    Andrew

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  5. Awesome explanation. Thanks for sharing this very useful explanation. I have a couple of questions:

    1. What is the size of the bolt on the underside of the column
    2. Where can I find the Shift Tube Retaining Bolts that go in the cut outs shift tube

    Thanks

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    Replies
    1. Great questions, Jesus!

      The socket I used I believe was 1/2". Since I only used it for alignment, I would recommend a size that fits snug in the housing.

      The retaining bolts look to be #3641. I would recommend eBay, West Coast Classic Cougar, or maybe even National Parts Depot (NPD). I couldn't find them with a quick search, and I'd be interested to hear if you have better luck!

      Delete
  6. Thank you, this is very helpful

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  7. This comment has been removed by the author.

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