1969 Ford Mustang Bizarre Braking Issues - Diagnosis and Repair

While completing some brake system repairs on the Mustang, I stumbled upon a characteristic of the factory braking system that rendered the vehicle in-op if done improperly.

1969 Mustang with the 1987 4Runner

This pertains to classic Mustangs with factory disc/drum and accompanying proportion valve and distribution block assembly.

'68-69 Factory Proportioning Valve and Distribution Block. Source: West Coast Classic Cougars

The issue - While bleeding the brakes on your Mustang, your 'brake warning light' came on, or you may have lost fluid pressure entirely at one wheel.

The details - While bleeding mine, I made it through bleeding both rear drums and front-passenger caliper, but when I went to bleed the front-driver caliper, I got a huge puff of air, and then nothing. No fluid would come out. It wouldn't come out the bleeder, the soft line, it wouldn't even come out of the distribution block it's self when I removed the hardline. What. In. The. World. The 'brake warning light' had come on, and the Mustang couldn't stop straight to save it's self. The rear-passenger drum was locking up, the front-driver caliper was in-operative, and the front-passenger caliper was dragging. An absolute mess, and not safe to drive. Not knowing what the issue was, I threw new calipers at it, adjusted the drums, bled the system until I was blue in the face, but that won't fix it because...

The factory disc/drum system - Your factory distribution block has a brass piston internally. This piston free-floats in the distribution block housing, and controls primarily your 'brake warning light.' When your system develops a leak, the pressure changes drastically inside the distribution block, causing the piston to move and depress the 'brake warning switch.' 

Source: Ford Shop Manual. Inlet and Outlet labeling doesn't apply

This piston also has 3 small o-rings and assists in routing brake fluid to the appropriate lines. When a leak is detected, and the piston moves due to pressure changes, the o-rings and their fluid directing properties move too. In my case, that second caliper jarred the internal piston loose and caused it to move 'forward' (towards the 'left front brake' line) and cut off fluid flow to the driver-front caliper. This piston isn't designed to stop or block a leak, it just happened to work out that way given the position of the unseated piston in relation to the brake line outlet. It also allowed for there to be no o-ring seal between the 'master cyl front bowl (rear brakes)', the proportioning valve inlet/outlet, and the rear brake outlet, causing fluid to bypass the proportioning valve and lock up the rear brakes while starving the remaining front caliper of the fluid pressure it needed to function properly. 

Source: Ford Shop Manual. Inlet and Outlet labeling doesn't apply

Due to the sensitivity of the piston to pressure changes, you have likely, or will likely, trip your 'brake warning light' at some point as you bleed your brake system

'Brake Warning Light' is On - What next?

If you have a fresh distribution block, or a piston that moves easily, you can try the Ford Shop Manual recommended way for resetting the 'brake warning light' switch.

• Turn the ignition to 'ACC' or 'ON' (your 'brake warning light' should illuminate)
• Loosen the outlet line opposite of the line that caused the light to come on. For example, my front caliper caused the piston to move forward, so I need to loosen my REAR outlet at the block to move the piston backwards
• Once the appropriate outlet has been loosened, press on the brake pedal to build pressure in the distribution block, allowing the system to simulate a 'leak' and move the piston.
• Once the piston moves enough to turn off the 'brake warning switch', tighten all lines and top off the reservoir. 

You can do the above steps delicately, or give it a good 'panic stop' stomp. Neither way worked for me.

When the Shop Manual Recommended way doesn't work - What next?

When your distribution block piston refuses to move under reasonable circumstance, it's time to remove and dissemble.

I would recommend getting a distribution block rebuild kit and SST handy for this next part. Even if you have a brand new exact replica distribution block, you don't know what you're going to find in there.

Start by draining and removing your master cylinder

Master cylinder and brake switch removed

Loosen 'Right Front', 'Left Front' and 'Rear' brake lines - Leaving the master cylinder lines and proportioning valve lines tight.

To remove the internal piston, loosen and remove the bolt and copper crush sleeve on the rear of the distribution block.

Location of access bolt and copper crush sleeve on rear of distribution block

Protect the brass body and brake lines, if extra force is needed. You may need to tap the socket while ratcheting, to break the bolt loose.

Use a small punch to push the piston out through the access port by poking it from the 'Left Front' brake port.

Factory piston on the left, NPD rebuilt piston on the right

Misplaced o-rings during rebuild may be what caused this piston to seize. Note the flat rings and the (1) round o-ring. The round o-ring should be on the 'rear' end, closest to the rear brake lines.

New o-rings installed and SST fitted.
Give a gentle push on the piston once the SST is installed to make sure the SST is fully seated and will hold the piston in place

Piston installed, access bolt tighten, SST installed. Ready to install in the vehicle and bleed

Once your piston is re-centered and your SST installed, you can reinstall the distribution block and bleed the system like normal.

What if you haven't touched your brake system yet, and want to do it right the first time?

Here is how I would do it, given the chance to do it again and do it right from the beginning.

• Order all your parts and get them ready. My system was rotted out, and needed the Midland booster, master cylinder, master cylinder adapters, complete hardline kit (stainless), brake line retainer clips, factory distribution block/proportioning valve, braided stainless soft lines, rear softline-to-hardline adapter, and the calipers I thought would fix the problem
• Get your tools ready. I recommend the Baer Push Rod Length Gauge, the Mustang Brake Pressure Differential Switch Lock tool (Factory SST), and the piston rebuild kit for your distribution block. I got mine from NPD
• Clean and paint your pot metal pieces (calipers, drums, master cylinder). It all looks great and clean now, but it'll turn a lovely fuzzy shade of rust without some paint
• Start from the rear and start installing from the rear forward. If you jump around, you're likely to miss something
• When installing your distribution block, use the SST from the beginning. The piston is very sensitive to pressure changes and will likely knock it's self out of place if left free-floating
• Measure your brake booster push rod length against your master cylinder using the Baer gauge and adjust until there is 5lbs of pressure between the rod and master cylinder seat (per the Ford Shop Manual). Contact, but no master cylinder movement at rest, is ideal
• Bench bleed the master cylinder and install
• Pump up the system to build pressure
• Check all the new fittings with a fresh paper towel for leaks or weeping
• If leaking, stainless lines need to be tightened, backed off, and tightened again to seat properly due to the stiffer material
• Bleed the system with a buddy when the system is tight and dry

Hopefully this saves you some headache when servicing your own classic Mustang brake system!

Installing Auto Decals by B.L.Vinyl

I've been making custom vinyl decals for years now and a common question I get is, 'how do I install these?'

B.L.Vinyl '87-88 Toyota Hood Graphic

Laying down vinyl isn't difficult, but taking these steps will make the job much easier and give you the best results.

To begin, wash the area where you want the decal with soap and water, and dry with a fresh microfiber cloth. If you use degreaser, wash the area afterwards with soap and water, and dry thoroughly. Install the vinyl decal during warmer weather, or bring the vehicle inside and allow vehicle and decal to warm up to at least 60-degrees.

Your decal from B.L.Vinyl will have 3-layers; The backing paper, the decal, and clear transfer vinyl.

The 3 layers: Backing paper, the decal (black), and clear transfer vinyl

For small decals, fully remove backing paper from decal. Leave the clear transfer vinyl attached to the decal.

For small decals, fully remove the decal from the paper backing (use 2 hands)

For extra-sticky decals that want to stick to the backing paper, and not the clear transfer vinyl, flip the entire decal over and remove the backing paper at a sharp angle. This creates a crease in the backing paper that the decal will more readily release from.

For extra sticky vinyl, creating a crease in the backing paper encourages the decal to release from the paper

Hold the clear transfer vinyl firmly, and hover the decal above the vehicle surface until it is lined up how you want. Carefully stick one side of the decal to the vehicle.

Decal is positioned and adhesion started

Using a fresh microfiber cloth, smooth the decal down to the vehicle surface, working from one side of the decal to the opposite. Don't use a credit card or other sharp plastic device, as it can snag the clean transfer vinyl and cause distortions. Check for bubbles and alignment as you work from one side of the decal to the other. Bubbles can be worked to the closest edge of the decal, or popped with a small sharp pin. Alignment can be corrected by gently pulling the clear transfer vinyl as the decal is being laid down. This will put small distortions in the vinyl. Use your best judgement between alignment and decal distortions.

Once the decal is adhered to the vehicle, give it a final rub with the microfiber cloth, paying close attention to edges and small detailed pieces.

Firmly rub the entire decal to ensure good contact

Choose one corner of the clear transfer vinyl and begin peeling it off of the decal.

To remove clear transfer vinyl, starting at a corner and pulling at a 45-degree angle to the decal

Pull the corner in a 45-degree angle, keeping the waste clear transfer vinyl low, to promote adhesive release between the clear transfer vinyl and the decal.

Keep clear transfer vinyl low, allowing the decal to more easily release from it

If small detail pieces of the decal stick to the clear transfer vinyl, use the clear transfer vinyl to stick them back into place. If the decal becomes fully installed and the missing small detail pieces aren't noticed until later, use a fresh razor blade to pick the detail pieces off the clear transfer vinyl, and with the detail piece on the very edge of the razor blade, place onto the vehicle in the correct position.

Using a razor blade to install small detail pieces that stuck to the clear transfer vinyl

Position the vinyl detail piece with the razor blade and press it into place with your finger

Detail piece installed using a razor blade

Your small decal is now installed!

The process is very similar for larger decals, but there are a few tricks to make handling a large sticky kite-like object easier.

Wash and dry the vehicle area where you want the decal.

For vertical surfaces (doors, fenders, bedsides) Align the decal on the vehicle WITHOUT removing the backing paper. Identify which side of the decal you will start at, and with blue painter's tape, tape the decal in place. Move to the opposite side of the decal, and verify alignment. Once the decal assembly is aligned to your liking, tape the oppose end of the decal in place.

Starting at your beginning edge, remove blue painter's tape and gently lift up on the decal assembly so that you can access the backing paper.

Pull the backing paper back about 6" and fold it over flat. Holding the clear transfer vinyl, verify the alignment of your starting edge, and adhere it to the vehicle.

With your fresh microfiber cloth, firmly rub the 6" of decal onto the vehicle. Remove the blue painters tape on the opposite end of the decal, and while slowly pulling the remaining backing paper off, continuously smooth decal down using microfiber cloth. Pay close attention to bubbles and alignment while removing the backing paper and smoothing down decal. Small bubbles and minor misalignments can be adjusted as mentioned above. For large misalignments, depending on the decal design, you can cut the clear transfer vinyl at a junction between decal pieces and begin your installation and alignment from your new cut. Use your best judgement as to whether you should gently pull the decal back into place, or cut at the clear transfer vinyl.

For horizontal surfaces (hood, roof, trunk) Align decal on the vehicle WITHOUT removing the paper backing to ensure proper fit. Identify which edge of the decal to begin with (I recommend beginning at whichever edge has the most critical alignment). For this next step, you can either 'eyeball' the opposite side of the decal to confirm alignment, or tape into place before backing paper removal. Pull backing paper 6" down from your starting edge and fold over. Holding the clear transfer vinyl firmly, and align the decal at your starting edge. Once alignment is confirmed, press decal onto the vehicle using the microfiber cloth to firmly adhere and smooth decal. If you taped your decal into place, remove the tape now, and slowly pull back the backing paper as you smooth the decal down. During this step, you can practice your best dot matrix printer impression, as you move your microfiber cloth back and forth across the decal as it's being laid down.

Check for bubbles and alignment during installation. Bubbles around the edge can be pressed to the nearest decal edge by using the microfiber cloth. Large bubbles, or bubble in the center of a large decal can be popped and pressed with a small sharp pin.

Once the clear transfer vinyl is fully removed, your decal is fully installed! Give the vinyl a couple days to fully adhere to the vehicle, then you can resume washing as your prefer.

Now that you're ready to install some vinyl of your own, head over to B.L.Vinyl on Etsy to browse the designs available, and follow B.L.Vinyl on Facebook for deals and product updates.

Images coming soon

Rebuilding 1969 Mustang Non-Tilt ('Telescoping') Steering Column

Rebuilding the Non-Tilt ('Telescoping' or 'Collapsing') steering column on your 1969 Mustang isn't particularly difficult, but the information explaining 'how-to' is few and far between. In this write-up, I will list the parts available and where to find them, share exploded views from multiple sources, and explain how I rebuilt my steering column assembly.

The list of parts I used to rebuild my steering column assembly isn't representative of all the parts available, but these are the parts most likely to wear out or break.

Muscle Car Research

• Steering Shaft Insulator (3E629)
• Transmission Selector Tube Seal (7C102)
• Lower Steering Column Tube Bearing (7347)
• Tube Plug (3B361) - Comes with 3E629 above

MAC's Antique Auto Parts

• Upper Shaft Bearing (MAC#41-37789-1) (Ford#C5SZ-3517-A)
• Upper Shaft Bearing Sleeve (MAC#42-45001-1) (Ford#D1AZ-3518-A)
• Upper Shaft Bearing Retainer (MAC#44-48035-1) (Ford#DOAZ-3C610-B)
• Upper Shaft Bearing Retainer #2 (MAC#41-48034-1) (Ford#DOAZ-3C610-A)

CJ Pony Parts

• Steering Coupler Assembly (3A525)

West Coast Classic Cougars

• Firewall Seal (3513)

Part Numbers and Illustrations apply
Source: Online Review 

Descriptions and Various Parts apply
Source: Haynes Manual

Descriptions. Illustrations, and Part Numbers apply
Source: 1969 Ford Car Shop Manual

Before we begin disassembly, it's important to understand why our steering shaft may need a rebuild. One reason is that the bearings and seals are made of plastic and foam which deteriorate over time, causing slop in the shaft it's self. Another reason is that the steering column is designed to collapse on impact, sacrificing the internals of the steering column tube to minimize damage to the driver.  If your column has collapsed due to impact, a replacement steering shaft assembly is recommended. 

Source: 1969 Ford Car Shop Manual

When I began my steering column rebuild, I did not expect I would be needing to write-up the process. After seeing the lack of information available on reassembly, I decided one was needed. Because of this oversight, I did not document the tear-down process, but will list the general steps to get you started.

Disassembly

1.) Disconnect the battery

2.) Disconnect the Turn Indicator Switch wiring harness (under dash)

3.) Remove steering wheel (process will vary slightly if original or after-market)

4.) Remove Turn Signal Switch Lever

5.) In the engine bay, remove the rag joint from the steering box input shaft (7/16" Universal Socket)

6.) Under the dash at the firewall, disconnect the firewall bracket and seal (3513)

7.) Disconnect and remove steering tube assembly bracket from the dash

The steering column assembly will now be loose and can be pulled through the firewall, including attached rag joint.

Disassembly Continued

8.) Disconnect and remove rag joint from steering shaft flange

9.) Disconnect and remove turn signal indicator switch and hazard grommet

10.) Remove Steering Shaft C-Clip (3C610) and remove spacer, bearing, and bearing sleeve. The steering shaft is now free and pulls out of the bottom of the assembly

Bearing Retaining C-Clip (3C610), Spacer, Bearing (3517), and rubber Bearing Sleeve (3518)

11.) Disconnect Shift Tube Retaining Bolts. The bolts will fall down into the upper steering shroud, which is fine.

Shift Tube Retaining Bolts. The initial view of them underneath the turn signal indicator switch

12.) Disconnect Phillips head screws and remove the upper shroud. You can retrieve the shift tube retainer bolts and fully remove the turn signal indicator switch now. Shift Tube and Steering Column Tube are now free and pull a part from each other.

Phillips head screws for the upper shroud

13.) Take note of bearings (plastic) and spacers (foam) still intact in Shift Tube and Steering Column Tube

Steering Column Tube and Shift Tube. Note the plastic bearing (upper 7347) that is not available as a reproduction

Reproductions and salvaged parts ready for install

Reassembly

After cleaning, prepping, and painting the assembly, you're ready to put it back together.

1.) Insert the salvaged 7347 upper bearing into the steering column tube, making sure the tabs face upwards, towards the top of the tube, and the retaining dimples line up with the cut-outs on the steering column tube

Upper 7347 bearing inserted into steering column shift tube

2.) Install foam seal 7C102 into steering column tube and push it in until it rests against the bottom of 7347

7C102 seal installed into steering column tube

3.) Install foam seal 3E629 into the shift tube, and push it down into the tube by about an inch

4.) Install plastic bearing 7347 (lower, reproduction available) into the end of the shift tube

5.) Install shift tube into steering column tube, rotating slightly so as to work it past foam seal 7C102

Foam seal 3E629 and plastic bearing 7347 (lower) installed into shift tube. Shift tube then installed into steering column tube

6.) Take the upper shroud and install your retaining bolts. Only thread the nut on by one thread, allowing the bolts to be floppy (very important later)

Underside of the upper shroud, with retaining bolts very loosely threaded on

7.) Run the turn signal indicator switch wiring through the upper shroud hole

8.) Align your steering column tube, shift tube, and lower shroud so that the bolt on the underside of the column is accessible (it's about to all come together)

Steering column tube, shift tube, and lower shroud all aligned so that bolt on underside of column is accessible

Use a socket to help keep steering column tube and shift tube aligned

9.) Run the turn signal indicator harness through the bottom shroud

Turn signal indicator harness runs through lower shroud, with socket holding alignment

Upper shroud and lower shroud harness recesses are offset by roughly 10-degrees

10.) Align upper shroud with steering assembly by lining up Phillips screw head seats, retainer bolt heads with shift tube cut-outs, and wiring harness recess

11.) Press upper shroud onto steering assembly, making sure retaining bolts are loose enough to swing out of the way, and come back to rest in shift tube retainer cut-outs. Tighten retainer bolts and Phillips head screws

Your shift tube is now connected to the steering column tube, and your upper shroud to the steering assembly. The shift tube will stick out by roughly half an inch from the bottom of the steering column tube and should feel solidly attached. If not, loosen retainer bolts and reseat them.

Shift Tube Retaining Bolt cut-outs on Shift Tube

Shift Tube protruding from bottom of Steering Column Tube when installed

12.) Install firewall seal (3513) and firewall bracket onto steering shaft. These do fit over the steering shaft flange, but it is very snug

13.) Install steering shaft into shift tube/steering assembly

Firewall seal and firewall bracket installed. They do fit over the flange, but it's tight

14.) Install bearing sleeve (3518), bearing (3517), spacer, and bearing retainer clip (3C610-B). I greased my bearing with marine grease, but greasing it at all isn't necessary

Bearing sleeve, bearing, spacer, and c-clip installed. Your c-clip may rest where the screwdriver indicates. I installed mine further down on the steering shaft to sit closer to the spacer

15.) Fasten turn signal indicator, hazard grommet, and steering adapter to upper shroud (if using aftermarket steering wheel).

Column is ready for install into the Mustang. Note: Don't install the rag joint on the shaft yet

16.) At the steering box input shaft, install the keyed rag joint. To help align the rag joint, mark the flat tooth on the outside of the rag joint with Sharpie

Keyed rag joint, aligned and ready to be seated

When seating the rag joint, align the bolt recess (about 1/4" between steering box and rag joint). Otherwise the bolt won't thread in

Bolt recess aligned and ready to be tightened

17.) Take the steering column assembly and insert it through the firewall. Loosely install the dash bracket (to hold the column at the correct angle)

18.) Install foam plug 3B361 into the end of your steering shaft. Align and mate the steering shaft to the rag joint and tighten rag joint bolts

19.) Tighten dash bracket bolts

20.) Install and tighten firewall bracket bolts

21.) Straighten wheels and install steering wheel

22.) Install turn signal indicator lever

23.) Install horn

24.) Install turn signal indicator harness (under dash)

25.) Reconnect battery

26.) Start engine. With vehicle in park, turn wheels fully left and fully right, and test turn signal indicators

You should have a stout-feeling connection to the steering box now, and a great-looking steering column to show for your efforts.

Thanks for reading!

Disclaimer #1: My dash bracket hardware had been changed out long ago, requiring me to remove my dash to reach the hardware. This isn't typical, but it's a possibility for any Mustang.

Disclaimer #2: This write-up is purely from memory. If I missed something, please put it below in the comments, along with where it should go in the process, and I'll update it to reflect your addition.